We had our Chambolle Musigny wine tasting last weekend. The red wines that were featured include:
- Louis Jadot Chambolle Musigny 2004
- Robert Groffier Chambolle Musigny Les Sentiers 1er Cru 2001
- Comte Georges de Vogue Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru 2001
- Pierre Bertheau Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 1981
- Bouchard Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 1997
- Drouhin Laroze Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2006
As usual, we had them blind tasted and asked the guests to guess their “identities” and vote on the wine of the night. All wines were opened and bottle-breathed for almost 1.5-2 hours by the time we tasted them.
“Wine of the night” – Drouhin Laroze vs. Bouchard
This turned out to be a close match between the two Bonnes-Mares: Drouhin Laroze 2006 and Bouchard 1997. It was indeed a split vote between the two. Given their age difference, Drouhin Laroze was more youthful and expressive with its lovely floral aroma whereas Bouchard appeared more rounded and ripe on its palate with balanced intensity. Both had excellent structure with seductive and long finish. This really came down to personal preference of the drinkers. As a side note, Bertheau’s Bonnes Mares was still holding up nicely at 34-year-old. Limited fruit was left, with mostly tertiary flavor and a silky palate.
2001 Premier Cru: Robert Groffier vs. Comte Georges de Vogue
Both wines could benefit more time in the cellar. Groffier’s Sentiers didn’t exhibit as much complexity as the Premier Cru of de Vogue. While one would feel much potential in Groffier’s Sentiers, it wasn’t presented in a wholesome way at the dinner. A few more years in the cellar might do this wine more justice. On the other hand, de Vogue’s premier cru pleasantly surprised few of us and was mistaken as being a grand cru. Well, this premier cru is extracted from younger vines from its Le Musigny Grand Cru, so it is sort of like a grand cru. De Vogue didn’t disappoint us!
Surprise of the night… Louis Jadot Chambolle Musigny 2004
A classic Chambolle! Most were guessing this wine to be at premier cru level given its richness and elegance. Louis Jadot uses the same label for its wide range of offerings, whether it is a Chablis at < $100 or its Le Musigny at >$3000. Many often think of Maison Louis Jadot producing only table wines. In fact, they apply the same meticulous approach in wine making for all level of wines, and they always offer the surprisingly higher quality for the price it charges. Some premier cru juice did go into this village wine.