Two weekends ago, we had an interesting lineup for a blind tasting of Burgundy Premier and Grand Cru from 2004, including all the major appellations in Cote de Nuits.
- Comte Georges de Vogue Chambolle Musigny Premier Cru 2004
- Louis Jadot Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts Premier Cru 2004
- J-F Mugnier Nuits-St-Georges Clos de la Marechale Premier Cru 2004
- Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2004
- Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2004
- Dujac Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2004
Wine of the night…
This turns out to be a very close tie between Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot, Lambrays Clos des Lambrays and Louis Jadot Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts.
Vougeraie Clos de Vougeot is drinking very beautifully now. Clos de Vougeot is a very large grand cru, with wide degree of quality among the grand cru vineyards. Vougeraie does not possess the top tier one based on its location, but the wine came out certainly no less than any wines from other top producers at the dinner. The nose was very floral, with a smooth and silky palate, and good complexity and solid length. A very good value for money for such quality.
Clos des Lambrays is almost (98%) a monopole owned by Domaine des Lambrays. His flagship wine is no stranger to many wine lovers in the world. Very classy and graceful. Palate is soft, medium weighted with nice long finish. It doesn’t have the greenness expected of the 2004 vintage. All guests were asking whether we have got more stock for this wine, unfortunately, all sold out.
Louis Jadot Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts “wowed” us with its freshness and elegance. It offers moderate structure and a great length. Fruit forward with balanced acidity. As a premier cru, it had a surprisingly strong showing at the night.
What about the super star – Comte Georges de Vogue?
All the wines were opened at 7pm and allowed to breathe in bottle. This is not enough, not even close enough for this lovely Chambolle Musigny Premier Cru to open up. The nose was tight and the flavors were not expressive. This wine comes from younger vines (older than 10 years, but less than 25 years old) from Le Musigny Grand Cru of Comte Georges de Vogue. In hindsight, we should have treated it like a sturdy Grand Cru. We could have done this wine more justice by decanting it or open even few more hours earlier. Sorry… =(
Dujac and Mugnier – classic showing of Gevrey and NSG
Both wines did a fabulous job for its respective level. Dujac’s Charmes was a bit reserved at the beginning, but opened up better with 2 hours in the open bottle. It was relatively more powerful and forward than the others. Mugnier’s Monopole from NSG always showcases how great wine can indeed be coming from Nuits-Saint-Georges. This is not a heavy weight; rather soft and velvety. A good balance of fruit and structure, with decent length while less complexity than other wines at the dinner.
All guests agreed that the 2004 Burgundy is very comfortable to drink now, including many of the grand crus. There was bit of greenness in the wines when first released, but as proven, the perceived greenie is largely gone or acceptable now.
Allow yourself a long dinner, and enjoy the wines to open up throughout. =)